The “Historical Center” route of Capodimonte is a wonderful journey for anyone looking to explore places filled with charm and history. Among the main attractions, you can visit Rocca Farnese, a stunning Renaissance fortress, and the Church of San Carlo, which was built in the 17th century with the help of the Farnese family. Don’t miss the beautiful Mergonara beach, which used to be the port of the Rocca Farnese. The Underwater Nativity Scene, visible from the panoramic garden, adds a unique touch, and the Church of Santa Maria Assunta is home to some exquisite works of art; both are suggestive. To top it all off, you can admire the town hall and the Poniatowski Palace, making for a rich cultural and beautiful itinerary.
1. Church of San Carlo
Dominated by the view of Palazzo Farnese, the church of S. Carlo, dating back to the period when the Duchy of Castro was governed by Duke Odoardo Farnese, has recently undergone renovation. It was built thanks to funds raised by the community and with the decisive intervention of the Farnese family. When the first stone was laid, some medals of Cardinal Alessandro were placed in the foundations. The church quickly became the seat of various confraternity associations. Of the five altars that were built, the largest is dedicated to the saint who was very dear to the Farnese family, San Carlo Borromeo, to whom the church itself is dedicated.
2.Mergonara Beach
From Piazza Umberto I, you can reach Mergonara by following an ancient paved ramp and a small path surrounded by greenery. Mergonara consists of a small beach and a rocky island known as Monte Cuculo by the locals. Between the 1500s and 1600s, it served as the “tourist port” for the Farnese family, who could access and navigate the beautiful waters of the lake from the Rocca above. Popes, cardinals, noblewomen, and noblemen from the Roman court—essentially the VIPs of that time—would walk these paths to board the splendid boats waiting for them. Not much has changed since then; the clean waters and panoramic views continue to delight tourists today.
3. The Underwater Nativity Scene
In the Giardinetti area, at a depth of just a few meters, you can admire an underwater nativity scene. It’s quite easy to see on beautiful, windless days, and you can reach it from the public garden above, which has recently been renovated. This renovation included the creation of a terrace that overlooks the lake, offering exceptional panoramic views and showcasing the vastness of the water. A visit during the Christmas season is especially enchanting, as the nativity scene is illuminated and beautifully reflected in the lake’s waters, making it a truly unique experience.
4. Church of Santa Maria Assunta
On the hill of Capodimonte, near the Rocca Farnese, stands the church of S. Maria Assunta, which offers a splendid view of the lake and the islands. With elegant stuccos and an arch attributed to Vignola, it features a statue of the Madonna Assunta and a painting of Maria SS. delle Grazie, attributed to the school of the painter Sebastiano Conca (1680-1764). Every year, on the second Sunday after Easter, the icon of the Madonna is carried in procession on a flowered carpet, in memory of the festive welcome that the people of Capodimonte gave when the canvas arrived in the village. The painting was donated by Cardinal Barbarigo to the Maestre Pie Filippini, founders of the first diocesan religious school in 1694.
5. Rocca Farnese
The majestic octagonal fortress stands on the volcanic cliff of the Capodimonte promontory, completely dominating it with its grandeur and beauty. The first sources regarding the origin of the Rocca Farnese describe it as a military construction, an outpost controlled by the Barons of Bisenzo of the Aldobrandeschi family branch of Sovana. Its history will change when the emerging Farnese family, originally from this area, begins its rise, transforming it into a place of representation, within which to meet and manage relationships with the highest Roman nobility. The beauty of Capodimonte, the Rocca, and the Bisentina island will indeed become the natural setting for friendships, love, and “court life.” It was also the scene of the visit of Pedro Gonzales, the man who originated the tale of Beauty and the Beast.
6. Town Hall
Originally obtained from the building that once served as a holiday retreat for the family of Prince Marcantonio Borghese, it later functioned as the village elementary school until the last century. Today, it houses the municipal administration. The panoramic council chamber offers an exceptional view, making it a popular choice for young couples who increasingly request the hall for their weddings.
7. Poniatowski Palace
Palazzo Poniatowski, constructed in the early 19th century for Polish Prince Stanislaw Poniatowski, who was the grandson of the last king of Poland, is an elegant neoclassical building situated in Capodimonte. Legend has it that the palace was built as a form of revenge against those who declined to purchase the Rocca Farnese. Its distinctive “L” shape and exquisite decorations make it a notable landmark, and it has recently undergone restoration after a lengthy period of neglect.
8. The Porticella
It was one of the two entrance gates to the current Piazza della Rocca; the other was located where the staircase below the bridge to access Rocca is today. Its arch frames a scene of rare beauty: the lake below, the coastline, and the Bisenzio promontory in the background. During an ideal walking tour in the heart of the town, a stop in front of the Porticella is a must.
9. The Pontonata
The immediately deep water and the high rocks were a popular destination for young swimmers looking to make acrobatic dives. It was through these real ‘tests of courage’ that many young people from Capodimonte were shaped, eventually becoming particularly skilled and appreciated navy soldiers. Today, these locations can be reached, albeit with some difficulty, by passing through the historic center of Capodimonte, always paying the utmost attention and respecting the unspoiled nature that characterizes them.